Monday, 24 August 2009

The Countdown Continues...

Only One Full Week Left in Spain...

Today is a special day. Not only have I just received an unexpected and very much needed little boost to my bank account thanks to the Erasmus Grant (money given for free to Year Abroad students within the EU, for those of you who don't know), but it marks my penultimate Monday in Madrid. Obviously, the ultimate Monday would probably have made for a better conceit for a blog post, but I'm leaving on a Thursday, so this is my actual Final Full Week living in Spain. What should I do with myself?

Well, I'm certainly not wandering around the place looking for stuff to do. I'm so busy, you probably won't read anything here until the end of the week. None of my activities are that interesting, though, so I'll leave you to your sordid imaginations to come up wth something more exciting.

That is all.

Sunday, 23 August 2009

Summer Holiday: Segovia

The Roman Aqueduct in the centre of the Historical City

I really can't complain about my Summer. I've been living in Madrid, working (which is more than 17% of the Spanish population can say for itself), and reading anything I can get my hands on. In between all of that strenous activity, I have been on three day trips. I would have liked it to have been four (beach, two Historical Heritage Cities, and another beach), but one can't have it all. To top it up, this time I was accompanied by Tim: you know the one.

Most of the day was spent walking around looking at old buildings - and discovering my love of particularly interesting doors, see below - and fanning ourselves in the shade, talking politics and bitching about certain people who shall not be named here. As an aside, I feel really sorry for Tim: this week was not one of my best, and he had to put up with my moaning as I offloaded all of my frustration on him while he was supposed to be on holiday. In any case, we did have a nice day out, compounded by the timely and exquisite lunch (cuts of roast suckling pig: mmm) and the good old laugh at Spanish tourists jostling for a good photo position at the top of the aqueduct dating back to the Roman occupation. That and the genereous helpings of self-made clara con limón (that's beer and lemonade; shandy to those of you who want to lower the tone).

As per usual, photos follow.

Saturday, 22 August 2009

Video Nice, Video Nasty

This Week: Serious(ly Cool) Time-Wasting

I doubt this was created as a tribute, since it was posted long before Michael Jackson died, but I couldn't help finding this when searching for the Thriller video on YouTube.

I don't know whether to be disgusted at the amount of time which must have been wasted, or in awe of the kitsch genius. I'll go for the latter. Enjoy.


Monday, 17 August 2009

"Well, isn't this fun..."

An Artist's representation of how I feel, right now...

After having virtually no sleep, a full day of work on my feet, and being diagnosed with conjunctivitis, I now have no internet, because Jazztel (named and shamed) have cut off out internet early, and I'm not the named bill-payer, so as much as I huff and puff, nothing will be done. I'm writing this in a locutorio (downmarket internet café); so unless I can find another source of world wide wonder, expect a lot fewer blog posts in my final weeks.

I hate to say it, but I'm starting to look forward to leaving Spain...

Saturday, 15 August 2009

Persona Non Grata

A Spanish Policeman, yesterday

I've been desperately trying to avoid this issue for two reasons: 1) everybody knows Sanya in España is a fun blog, which deals with anything and everything to do with anywhere but Spain; and 2) the issue of race and racism in Spanish society is a very complex and somewhat blurred one (then again, show me a place where racism isn't a complex issue). Nevertheless, I feel the time has come for the blog to grow up. Particularly because of what happened to me a few days ago.

Since the beginning of July, I have been teaching English part-time at an academy for secondary school-age children in Pozuelo de Alarcón, which is a small suburban city in the region of Madrid. It is one of those perfectly-planned, creepy little places which reminds me of Village of the Damned, or The Prisoner. You know the kind: everyone is supposedly happy and relaxed in their idyllic little world, cut off from the rest of civilisation; but something dark and terrifying is behind the serenity. Well, fortunately for me, I have access to the outside world, via a half-hour bus journey from Madrid city.

On Wednesday morning, I was running late. I belted it down the road to the Moncloa bus station, ran to the closest entrance to my bus stand, and rushed down the escalator. Out of the corner of my eye, for about a second, I noticed two police officers at the foot of the escalator speaking to a woman. The woman was black. I paid no attention to it - I had my own business to attend to - but as soon as I had reached the bottom of the escalator, and was already on my way to the bus stand, I heard a call: "Oye, chico. Ven aquí." Maybe my brain had worked faster than I realised, but since I was the only person around who was likely to have been called, I turned around. The two policemen were standing in the same spot, facing me. I walked back up to them. What you read next is not an exact reproducion, but as close to what I can remember of the exchange.

Me: Yes? Is there a problem?

Officer 1 (tall, thin, in his thirties; non-threatening face): Do you have any documentation on you?

Me: I'm sorry?

Officer 1: Do you have your ID card?

Me: Err, yes.

I quickly reach into my pocket, pull out my wallet, and extract my Tarjeta de estudiante. OFFICER 1 takes it, and has good long stare. I respectfully take off my sunglasses and have a quick peek at OFFICER 2. He is much less kind-looking. Short, stocky and bald, he is clearly the "heavy". OFFICER 2 speaks to me, in an officious tone.

Officer 2: What are you doing in Spain?

Me: I'm a student. I've been studying my Year Abroad in the Complutense university.

Officer 2: It's summer, now.

Me: I decided to stay on for a little while and work as an English teacher. I'm actually on my way to work, now.

OFFICER 1 says something to his colleague. I don't hear it, since I'm thinking, "why on Earth are they asking me questions? They've seen my ID, and they can see I'm in a hurry." I quickly peek at the black woman, who is presumably waiting to be released, herself. She looks slightly anxious. The officers are talking, and writing things down, but I'm not paying attention, thinking in English, since I'm still tired from recently waking up and rushing to catch the bus I have now missed. OFFICER 1 then continues to speak to me.

Officer 1: Where are you from?

Me: The UK.

Officer 1: (Looking at the card) This says Nigeria.

Me: I was born in Nigeria, which is why you'll see "Nigerian" as my nationality on the card, but I have lived in the UK since I was a toddler.

Officer 1: You're under arrest.

Me: I beg your pardon? Why am I under arrest?

The officers laugh. I have misunderstood.

Officer 2: He said "Have you ever been under arrest?" Either in Spain or anywhere else.

Me: Ah, sorry. No. (The officers continue chuckling to themselves) It's just that I'm running late, and I'm not concentrating very well.

Officer 1: When are you leaving Spain?

Me: At the end of the month. I know my card runs out in mid-September, but I was only ever going to be living in Spain for one year.

Officer 1: What do you study?

Me: Hispanic literature. Which is how I can speak Spanish.

Officer 1: (Handing me back my card) OK, then. You can go.

Me: (Not without a considerable measure of restraint) Thank you very much. Goodbye.

I walked off to my bus stand, and fortunately caught the next bus. I noticed they had let the woman go, too.

It was quite clear from the beginning that these officers were not simply regular police. Their uniforms were neither the standard colour of the police nor were they Guardia Civil. They must have been working for the Immigration department. When I got on the bus, and was on my way, I glanced at the area, and they had gone. Clearly no-one else looked like they needed to be checked.

Why did I feel so indignant after that incident? After all, I'm not Spanish, and I'm not in possession of an EU passport. There was every possibility I could have been an illegal african immigrant, either living in Spain, or using the country as a route to the rest of Europe, as several hundred arabic and sub-saharan africans do every year. In any case, they let me go, once they were satisfied I was clearly no such person. Yet, even thinking about it now, I still feel really annoyed at the fact that I was stopped, in the midst of going about my business in a place I now call home; and that the legality of my presence was questioned. Why was I stopped? Because I'm black.

Before I go on, I must point out that I hate the Race Card. Honestly, I do. My dad used to use it as a means of winding people up, in order to get his way. I would cringe if I ever heard other black people - in London, one of the most multicultural cities in the world, of all places - complain about being racially discriminated against. By the time I was a teenager, the "it's because I'm black" whine had become so commonly-used, most of all by badly-behaved young black people being publicly reproached by older white people, that it was used as a catchphrase for satirist Sacha Baron Cohen's creation Ali G.

I think the general debate about racism is too generic. It focuses on the supposed "black vs white" dichotomy, which pushes all other forms of racism aside. When, in 2004, right-wing tabloid papers called the day of EU-expansion a day on which "floods" of Eastern European people desperate to enter the UK, looking for work, would arrive on Britain's shores and create a massive problem of immigration, I thought that was racist. When I read about two Egyptian teenagers, studying English in Brighton, being attacked by a racially-mixed group of boys for not speaking English to each other, I thought that was racist. When I hear Yoruba nigerians talk derogatively about their Igbo countrymen, simply for belonging to a different ethnicity, engaging in an age-old rivalry between both groups, I find that to be racist.

Recently, Prof. Henry Luis Gates Jr of Harvard University was arrested and the case became public, due to Prof Gates' insistence on his being treated by the police in a certain manner as racist because the officer was white and he is black. According to him, it was an indication of the vulnerability of "all black men [...] to caprice's forces". As far as I could tell, he was arrested for shooting his mouth off to the police.

What really annoys me about Prof. Gates is that he had no claim to the racism charge, yet I feel I do. I don't think the policemen themselves were racist - they were doing their jobs, carrying out a task they were sent to do. The problem is, when you are told "go get anyone who may look like an illegal immigrant" in a country which has very few legal black immigrants in it, you are going to single out the blacks. I can only guess this was the case, but my claim is slightly strengthened by the fact that the only other person I saw them detain was also black. If it is the case, then in my opinion, that's wrong, for two reasons.

Firstly, although the majority of black people you will see in Spain are illegal immigrants, that is not to say that all of them are. Most illegal african immigrants are out on the streets all day, selling bootleg DVDs, jewelry, sunglasses, or bags, trying to get by. They do pretty well, those street vendors, too: they always go to the same spots, and have a reliable customer base. If he isn't selling black market wares, he'll be standing outside a supermarket, peddling La Farola - a street newspaper which supports people by giving them a certain amount of copies to sell, the profits of which they keep. Think The Big Issue, but for african immigrants, rather than the homeless. However, I do not dress, look, sound or even carry myself like one of these people. Let me make it clear: I'm not saying I'm above or better than them, just that I am different. Since I have grown up in a Western culture and society, I reflect this in my behaviour, my attitude and the way I present myself to others. Furthermore, I was dressed to teach a morning of classes, with my satchel-bag at my hip, checking the time on my phone, in a busy bus station. Does that fit with the image of someone trying to sell knock-off jewelry or pirate DVDs?

Also, not all illegal immigrants in Spain are black. Aside from the blacks and latinos, who clearly do not "look Spanish", there are white immigrants who have entered and are living in the country via "unconventional" means. What about the Romanians and other Eastern Europeans who are here? I'm not saying they are all illegal, either; far from it. Rather, why were they not being stopped in the street, or on their way to work? Was it because they might get away with "looking Spanish"? I had a friend, here, who I still find hard to believe is Serbian: she's spent her life in Spain since she was a little girl, and has a very mediterranean look. Then again, Serbia is a Baltic country, and it borders with Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and Albania, all of which have a Mediterranean coast, so she looks mediterranean because she is mediterranean. She just isn't Spanish.

I'm worried that I may actually start to sound racist in this post, myself, but I don't think I am. I'm just indignant at the way I was treated. The real point I want to make, though, is not that I consider myself special because I know I'm not an illegal immigrant. Nor am I saying I was victimised because I'm black, even though I I do feel it was the reason for me being stopped and questioned. Nor do I even think Spain is a racist country. I've lived here for nearly an entire year, and I had previously visited at various stages in my life and for differing lengths of time. Spain is no longer a strange country to me, but a familiar home-from-home. In the seven years since I first came to the country, I have barely experienced anything which I would call even remotely racist. None of them were even incidents which would not have occurred anywhere else: I was either dealing with bigots, stupid or thoughtless people who spoke before processing their words. We all know they exist everywhere.

No, my problem is with the institution of the Immigration Police, and its far from progressive guidelines. There are now black teenagers, walking the streets with their friends, chatting and gossiping with their friends in thick Madrid accents. In ten years' time, why should any of them be stopped, as they go about their business, and have their validity to be in the country in which they were born, raised, and now whose workforce and economy they contribute to questioned? That is why I am angry that this happened to me, and that is why I thought I could no longer hold my tongue on the issue.

Now, tell me: have I become a Race Card Player?

Africa Lives! Some promotional material for the week-long festival, held in Spain, celebrating Africa's diversity and it's presence in the country. Read more about it here (if you speak Spanish, that is).

Reflections

Part Three
Winter 2008-09

The El Corte Inglés, just by my house, over Christmas 2008-9

I have always hated Christmas. I never felt the spirit of it, not just because of the "commercial holiday which has lost its true meaning" aspect, but mainly because of the pretense. Going to all that trouble for a few days of forced fun and internal depression sickens me.

Before a picture of some bitter old Scrooge pops into your head (too late?), I'll point out the fact that I'm not completely against Christmas. It does provide a welcome break. At Sixth Form (for the international readers: post school, pre-university) we had three weeks off, and this was increased to an entire month when I began studying my degree. I love the Christmas break at uni: everyone is frozen stiff and no-one can afford anything, so there is a real community spirit. That is, everyone gets together to share body heat, and the inevitable phenomenon of human interaction begins. My first Christmas at university was, unfortunately, spent at home in London with my family, and I soon decided that would never happen again. My second university-year Christmas was spent in the house where I lived during term time, in Brighton, and it was the best Christmas I ever had. Most of the time I spent with my housemates, and when they went off to do the special day with their families, I was left to my own devices. I cooked a massive meal for myself, did some reading, listened to music and watched the TV. It was bliss.

This time round, it would be different. Firstly, different country, different traditions. Spain is a very good place for families, and Christmas is the ultimate time to be with them, but not so great for us single units. Furthermore, in a different university, one has a different term timetable: the Complutense only gives its students two weeks for Christmas and New Year, since the semester goes from October until January, with exams in February. Lauren, my only friend in the house, had gone back to London. The other two, an antisocial spaniard and a frenchman with the mental age of about six, were working by day and out of the house at night. So, I was pretty much on my own, which I was happy with. Unfortunately, I had a mountain of reading and exam preparation to do, and Madrid had become very wet and very cold. I had always known that, weather-wise, the city went from extreme to extreme, but I still wasn't prepared for just how cold it had become. Tired, homesick, and overworked, it didn't look as though this year's Christmas would be any better than most of the ones I'd had before.

However, with those few Spanish friends of mine who had stayed in Madrid over the period, I fought off my annual depression. With Mamen, parties and bar-hopping excursions were still on the table, and thanks to Paloma and her boyfriend Emilio I actually spent both Christmas Day and New Year's Eve in the company of a family, as it should be. Although I was hardly the happiest person on the planet, what was threatening to be an entirely unpleasant situation became a bearable one; and all with a little help from my friends.

Out went 2008, in came 2009, and with it some new hope. Most of it centred around my dismal academic status. Let's just say that for someone who had previously excelled in his Spanish classes before actually moving to Spain, I had become very depressed at being unable to match such prowess here. As the weeks went by, I became more and more stressed. Added to that, I had been having some issues with my immigration situation which only seemed to get worse as the months went by. My student visa ran out in December, as expected and planned for, but my appointment for further documentation wasn't until the end of February. I had been given a justificante (a piece of paper acting as a reciept, if you like, of my appointment date) which I was told would serve as something granting me the legal right to remain in the country, but I was sceptical. After all, we all know immigration people can be bastards, if they want to.

Then came the exams. A friend of mine at my home university wrote to me, at the time, saying that exams have no redeeming features other than their being over. Ain't that the truth. Of the five modules I was studying, I would have to sit for four of them. I'd never taken an exam in Spain, before, and although the basic elements were in place - answer a certain number of questions on your own, in silence, to the best of your ability and in a set amount of time - I still didn't know what to expect. Put simply, with the exception of one (which I completely lucked out on) they were a disaster. I turned up ten minutes late to one, failed another, and finally got so distraught with my first four months' experience of Spanish university, I lost my senses for the other. Unsurprisingly, then, the results were hardly glowing.

2008 had been an unpleasant year, and the start of 2009 was not proving to produce better results. I was cold, I was tired, I was stressed and I was miserable. Had I hit rock bottom? Probably. Would things get any better? I'd just have to wait and find out...

Reflections Series

Part One: Summer and September 2008

Part Two: October and November 2008

Friday, 14 August 2009

Video Nice, Video Nasty

This Week: True Blues

B.B King. 'Nuff Said. Love the Jacket, too.


Monday, 10 August 2009

We Are Published

I've lost my virginity. And taken one, too.

Of course, I'm not talking about that virginity. Rather, I'm speaking of an online variety: that of the Guest Blog.

A few weeks ago, I wrote an article for my good friend Garçon Stupide, and it was not only the first time I'd written for a blog which wasn't my own, but also his first Guest Spot. Assuming it doesn't go down like a lead baloon, followers of his blog will see more articles from other bloggers; and maybe (if I'm a really good boy) something more from yours truly. Otherwise, it was a nice, fun experiment, and I'm glad I took part it in, nonetheless.

You can read the article, titled "The Gayest City on Earth", here. It's more of my usual rubbish, but someone might like it. In any case, check out Garçon's blog.

That is all.

Book Review: If on a Winter's Night a Traveller

If on a Winter's Night a Traveller (Se una notte d'inverno un viaggiatore), by Italo Calvino

"You are about to begin reading Italo Calvino's new novel, If on a winter's night a traveler [sic]. Relax. Concentrate. Dispel every other thought. Let the world around you fade. Best to close the door; the TV is always on in the next room. Tell the others right away, "No, I don't want to watch TV!" Raise your voice - they won't hear you otherwise - "I'm reading! I don't want to be disturbed!" Maybe they haven't heard you, with all that racket; speak louder, yell: "I'm beginning to read Italo Calvino's new novel!" Or if you prefer, don't say anything; just hope they'll leave you alone." And so begins Italo Calvino's novel If on a Winter's Night a Traveller.

From that point on, I was hooked. This book is primarily about the processes which occur when engaging in reading and writing, as well as the relationship between author and text, text and reader, and the supposed relationship between the author and reader. Basically, it is about everything to do with literature, aside from thematic debates and secondary "issues" which arise from the text. Immediately, the reader of the text merges with the reader in the text, and the plot progresses from there.

Apart from this meta-literary ingenuity, Calvino's greatest strength is his sense of humour. Because the plots - yes, there are more than one; each concerning a different narrative encountered by the reader in the text - vary radically from the parodic to the satirical to the downright nonsensical, the author cannot take himself or anything else concerning the book too seriously, allowing for it to be an engaging and surprisingly easy reading experience. Despite this ease, the continual debate about what constitutes literature, and how to identify it as differing from commentary, journalism, philosophy and/or pornography - or, indeed, if it encompasses all and any other forms of writing - is the very basis of the entire work. As I said, the book deals with literature as both a recreational and an academic pursuit, and therefore all possible arguments concerning the activity of reading and writing are presented.

I don't want to turn this review into an essay, since I had to read the novel for my next term at university and I'll be writing 3000 words in December; and the fact that this is the place for value judgements, so I can get all of my initial joy out of the way. In my meagre "research" (a brief glance at his Wikipedia page), I discovered that Calvino was the most widely translated italian writer of his time, and I can see why. If more of his work is like If on a Winter's Night a Traveller, it isn't hard to understand his popularity.

If you're at all interested in books beyond the simple pleasure of reading them, buy yourself a copy of this novel. In fact, scratch that. If you even enjoy the simple pleasure of reading, then buy a copy. It really is worth it.

Italo Calvino: He's very, very good...

Summer Holiday: Salamanca

The Plaza Mayor (Grand Square) in Salamanca

I had always imagined Salamanca to be like the Spanish equivalent of Oxford or Cambridge. I wasn't far off. All of these cities have a large university student body; all have their own unique history stretching back centuries; all are full to the brim with beautiful and inspiring architecture; and all are cities whose univeristies I wish I were clever enough to have been able to study at.

Once again, I was only there for a day trip, but I had a lovely time, nonetheless. Here are some scenic snaps. Enjoy.


PS: To Eduardo. After ten minutes looking, and starting to look suspicious, I didn't even find the frog. Tell me, it doesn't really exist, does it? Didn't have any pinchos, either...